The Shepherd, December 2007
A PILGRIMAGE TO FILI
HAVING NEVER VISITED a properly-run monastery in an Orthodox culture, I was blessed on 29th September to visit the Sacred Monastery of Sts Cyprian and Justina at Fili, the home of our Metropolitan Cyprian and of Bishop Ambrose of Methoni.
After a long trip I eventually arrived on the Saturday morning at eight o’clock, and was greeted extremely warmly by Bishop Ambrose, and after some rest invited to trapeza (the monastic meal) in the beautifully frescoed refectory with the other fathers. Everyone had a set place and, as I was not yet accustomed to their exemplary hospitality, I was rather embarrassed to be seated amongst the more senior monks. The fathers wore their monastic rasons and koukoulis (veils), and ate in silence, listening to an edifying reading, and after a prayer they dispersed, without talking, to their various obediences.
Bishop Ambrose then gave me a tour of the monastery, including the icon studio, incense factory, library, garages, heavy-duty work shop, computer room, sewing room, office, shop, cells, several small chapels and the new large church. The monastery is perched on a mountain side in the Ano Liosia district outside Athens and commands a good view of the city. The village of Fili was recently damaged by earthquake and had many broken and half-built houses in the sun scorched terrain. It is the home also of many gypsies and had a war-torn look about it. This contrasted with the beauty of the monastery and gave it an oasis like quality. It is divided into two main sections. The outer, with the large church, gift shop and refreshment area, was open to all the lay people. In the inner one with the cells and workshops, guest rooms and refectory built tightly and rather ungainly around the monastery church and garden, only the monks and their guests were permitted.
On Sunday I was blessed to serve in the new large church. It is a beautiful building built in the Byzantine style, with a polished marble floor. It has side apses and a balcony. The altar is finely frescoed, although the iconostas is temporary. They have not yet painted the frescoes in the main body of the church. Bishops Chrysostomos and Ambrose led the service, assisted by three priestmonks, two hierodeacons and two choirs from the monastery. The chanting was breath-taking. All the clergy had good voices and served prayerfully and reverently, and tried to help each other. The large congregation was made up of people of all ages and backgrounds, and even the children were well-behaved. After the service, the serving monks went straight back to the monastery, while Bishop Ambrose met many of the people during the light refreshments and was available to talk with them.
During the next few days I was able to witness something of the daily life of the monks, which revolved around the church services, starting with the Divine Liturgy everyday at 6 a.m. Vespers was at 3.30 p.m. and Mattins at approximately 6.30 p.m., usually in the small monastery church. These were chanted quietly with little effort and, I suspect, deliberately without any self-display. I personally found them a real struggle with the oppressive heat, which made the chapel seem stuffy, cramped and airless, especially being used to the Brookwood church, but the prayerfulness was very evident. The first main meal is at 3 p.m, and then again at 6 p.m., with no eating or drinking in between without a blessing. The monastic obediences are undertaken with little talking, and often a monk will repeat the Jesus Prayer aloud to help retain the mental struggle of the brethren. When I needed to speak to a few of the fathers, though, I found them gracious and helpful, and not at all distant or cold, with nothing of the “spooky” piety one associates with medieval European monasteries. They were rather down-to-earth and matter of fact.
On Wednesday evenings they chant the Paraklesis in the large church with the exorcism prayer of St Basil and with an anointing of the people. The chanting was again very beautiful, and a couple of married priests served with the monks, and some five hundred people of all ages attended and were anointed.
During my stay, Bishop Ambrose continued to show me exceptional hospitality, and arranged for me to visit some holy places, and several communities connected to the monastery.
Near the centre of Athens is the metochion (podvorie) where one of the priestmonks gives a talk every Sunday afternoon. It is served by a married priest, has two churches, a hall, refreshments area and acts as a centre for people in Athens.
On the other side of the mountain from the monastery is the Convent of the Holy Angels, founded by Abbess Kipriani of blessed memory, who now reposes there. The twenty-seven nuns do icon painting and make and embroider church vestments to a very professional level. The convent is immaculately clean, and they are just completing the building of a new monastery church. The present Abbess, Mother Taxiarchia, showed great kindness and arranged for me a spiritually uplifting tour of the several small chapels within the grounds.
A short ferry trip from the port of Piraeus takes you to the Island of Aegina, one with the relaxed charm of many of the Greek islands so popular with tourists. But a twenty minute bus ride into the mountains and you are greeted with the beautiful sight of the huge Byzantine-style church dedicated to St Nectarius, and the Convent of the Holy Trinity which he founded and where his relics repose. Here we saw the living quarters and the personal belongings of the saint, preserved as they were in his life-time. It was a blessing to venerate his relics, as at home we know of many people suffering with cancer and he is particularly called upon for this cause.
A quick drive from the monastery at Fili is the Convent of St Paraskevi, which was recently damaged by earthquake. Again we were greeted with warm hospitality by the Abbess and her four nuns, who discussed the renovation work with Bishop Ambrose, and their need to expand the main church as so many people were attending the services.
In fact everywhere I went they were building or improving what they had, and the bond of love was expressed by the extraordinary hospitality always shown. I was particularly impressed by how they seemed to help and support each other. I cannot express how helpful it is to have seen such spiritual strugglers, and to know that even as I write they are “fighting the good fight.”
Hierodeacon Sabbas
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